December’s Project: Crochet Pine Cone

These pine cones are quick to make and and a great way to use up those odds and ends in your yarn stash.

The original pattern and photographs can be found here.

Pine Cone

This is a very quick and easy pattern that my half sister gave to me. Someone else had given it to her. You will not believe how quickly you can make these. They look so pretty on the Christmas tree!

Crochet Pinecone 2Size: approximately 3 inches

Materials:

I used Red Heart Super Saver Buff Fleck (be sure not to use a yarn that is too soft or too thin for this pattern)
Size G Hook
Gauge: Not important

Abbreviations: sc = single crochet, ch = chain, st = stitch, sl st = slip stitch, dc = double crochet
Ch 15
*dc in 3rd ch from hook, ch 3, sl st in first chain of the ch 3 you just did* Repeat this step 3 more times in the same “3rd ch from hook” stitch.
Repeat step 2 in each of the remaining chains of the original ch 15.
At the end of the last dc in the last ch don’t do the ch 3 or sl st. Just finish off after the last dc. Leave the yarn tail long enough so that you can weave it to the top center of the pine cone. Tie it to the beginning yarn tail. That creates the hanger!

Crochet Pinecone 3

This detail photo shows the original ch 15, the first dc and the ch 3

Crochet Pinecone 4

This detail photo shows the nub that is made with the sl st in the ch 3

Crochet Pinecone 5

This detail photo shows the first four dc’s that are in the third ch from the hook

Crochet Pinecone 6

As you work you will be creating a spiral. The spiral becomes a pine cone!

Crochet Pinecone 1

Yes, it is the only ornament on our tree so far. This weekend we finish our decorating!

Edited to Add: Check out my October 13, 2009 post for my explanation of why you shouldn’t use too thin or too soft a yarn for this crochet pine cone pattern.

November’s Project: Newfie Mittens

Here’s a beautiful pair of mittens to keep your hands cozy as the cold weather season starts to set it!

The original pattern can be found here and also on Ravelry. Main photo by by Northof50 on Ravelry.

Newfie Mitten

Newfie Mittens - Photo by Northof50
Size: Adult
Need:
· 2 colours of worsted weight yarn – preferably a light and a dark
· Set of 4 -4mm double pointed needles
· Stitch holder or large safety pin or even some scrap yarn

Pattern 1: *k4, sl2* repeat
Pattern 2: k1, sl2, *k4, sl2* repeat

Notes: Slip slipped stitches purl-wise.

 

Directions
With colour A, cast on 40 sts. Rib in K2, P2 for 3 inches increasing to 42 sts on the last round. Do not cut off colour A.

Join colour B and work 5 rounds of Pattern 1. Purl 2 rounds with colour A.

With colour B, work 5 rounds of Pattern 2, and purl 2 rounds with colour A.

With colour B, work 5 rounds of Pattern 1, and purl 2 rounds with colour A.

With colour B, work 5 rounds of Pattern 2, and purl 1 round with colour A.

Next round (Thumb): P3, slip next 6 sts to a holder, cast on 6 sts, and complete purl round.

Continue working until 7 more patterns are complete – alternating Pattern 1 and Pattern 2 with 2 purl rows of colour A after each pattern.

 

To decrease:
Row 1: *K4, K2tog* repeat
Row 2: *K3, K2tog* repeat
Row 3: *K2, K2tog* repeat
Row 4: *K1, K2tog* repeat
Row 5: * K2tog* repeat
Draw up stitches and fasten off.

Thumb:
Slip 6 stitches from holder, pick up and knit 8 more stitches (14 sts). Divide on three dpns. Work in stockinette stitch 2 ¼ inches or until desired length.

To decrease:
Row 1 *K2, K2tog* repeat
Row 2 *K2tog* repeat
Draw up stitches and fasten off. ENJOY!!

For child’s mitten – Cast on 30 sts. Work thumb on 7th row of Pattern 2, and work 4 more patterns for hand. 12 sts for thumb.

For larger child’s mitten – Cast on 36 sts. Work thumb on 3rd Pattern, and 7 more patterns for hand, and 14 sts for thumb.

October’s Project: Japanese Knot Bag

Here is a simple tote pattern with an ingenious design. It’s a rather quick knit that can be adapted and embellished however you’d like.

The original pattern and photographs can be found here.

This is a knitting pattern for a bag inspired by the Japanese knot bag.

A Japanese knot bag is a small roundish bag with 2 handles. It is frequently made with recycled kimono fabric. It is carried with one handle over the other to create an interesting asymmetry. The handles could be of equal length or one could be significantly shorter than the other.

It is a clever bag design that requires no extra accessories for closure.

My knitted knot bag complete with buttons

My knitted knot bag complete with buttons

In this pattern, I have chosen to knit one handle shorter than the other. I have also decided to position the shorter handle in front of the longer one. The idea is to loop the shorter handle over the longer one to act as closure in front of the bag. The usual position is side by side.

I have also used smaller sized needles than was recommended for the yarn so that I get a firmer and sturdier knitted fabric.

Materials
1 skein Knitpicks Wool of the Andes Bulky Scuba (100% Peruvian Highland Wool)
Assortment of buttons

Equipment
3.5mm knitting needles (double-pointed or circular needles)
An extra pair of 3.5mm double-pointed needles.
Sewing needle and thread in matching colour

Directions for the body

  1. Cast on 72 stitches
  2. Bring the first stitch and the last stitch together
  3. Place a marker between these 2 stitches
  4. Join together and start knitting in the round by knitting the first stitch right after the last stitch
  5. Knit in the round until the piece measures 17cm. The body of the bag is basically a square. If the width of the bag is more than 17cm, then knit till the height is the same as the width.

    Body of the Bag

    Body of the Bag

Directions for the Handles

  1. Adjust the first 18 stitches onto a single needle
  2. Then, knit these 18 stitches as follows: K2, P2, K10, P2, K2
  3. Turn and knit the same 18 stitches as follows: P1, K1, P1, K1, P10, K1, P1, K1, P1
  4. Repeat these 2 rows until the handle measures 25cm
  5. Using kitchener stitch, graft these 18 stitches to 18 stitches next to it.
  6. Once grafted, cut off the yarn and weave the ends into the bag neatly
  7. Start step 2 and 3 again with the next 18 stitches
  8. Repeat these 2 rows until the handle measures 13cm
  9. Using kitchener stitch, graft these 18 stitches to the remaining 18 stitches on your circular needles.

    Bring the two edges together for the kitchener stitch

    Bring the two edges together for the kitchener stitch

The finished handles will look like this:

The handles, one longer than the other

The handles, one longer than the other

Sewing up the bottom

Front view of the knot bag

Front view of the knot bag

  1. Position the bag so that the shorter handle is in front of the longer one
  2. Sew up the bottom using mattress stitch

Attaching the buttons
Using a sewing needle, attach assortment of buttons to the body of the bag.

Lining the bag

Line the bag and it lasts longer. I lined both the handles and the body.

Find any fabric that you can re-cycle. You can buy new fabric too but I think an old T-shirt works just fine. Measure and cut the fabric with about 1 inch extra for folding in. Two narrow strips for the handles and a long rectangle for the body.

Position and pin the narrow strips to the inside of the handles right side facing up. Fold the 1-inch border in and slip stitch along all the sides.

Fold the fabric for the body in half right-side together. Mark out the 1 inch border and stitch up the side and bottom. You can use the sewing machine for this if you have one. Turn it out so that the right side is facing out. Turn the knot bag wrong side out and slip the body lining in. Fold the 1-inch border and pin along the opening of the bag over the handle lining.

Lining for the bag

Lining for the bag

Remember, sew the buttons or any other ornaments that you like onto the bag first before you line it because you want to hide all the threads and endings underneath the lining. fabric for the body in half right-side together. Mark out the 1 inch border and stitch up the side and bottom. You can use the sewing machine for this if you have one. Turn it out so that the right side is facing out. Turn the knot bag wrong side out and slip the body lining in. Fold the 1-inch border and pin along the opening of the bag over the handle lining.

I tried to be as clear as possible but if you still have questions, feel free to ask.

This is a free knitting pattern. I’ll be thrilled if you use it. Please link back here if you do. If you took pictures, I’ll be happy to upload it to the Knitting Pictures I like section.

Happy Knitting!

 

September’s Project: Fox Scarf

Fox Scarf1_Heta Ängeslevä_herkkujakoukku.blogspot.ca

Picture: Heta Ängeslevä, herkkujakoukku.blogspot.ca

This adorable pattern is perfect for keeping small necks warm when the autumn winds start to blow! The pattern has been translated from Finnish into English at it’s original source www.muumuru.com, but if you have any trouble with the translation you can always contact Sirkku at the shop for help as Finnish is her native language!

“This simple Fox scarf is fun project for everyone, even if you don’t have so much experience in knitting. The scarf that shows in the pictures is children’s size, and these knitting instructions are for that size. If you wish to make an adult’s size scarf, you have to increase the amount of starting loops.

You start the knitting by casting on 22 loops with white yarn (picture spot 1.). The width with this amount of loops is approximately 12 cm. Knit 2 rounds normally, after that start to decrease by knitting 2 loops together in the end of the row. Continue decreasing in every other round until you have four loops left. Knit then 4 rounds normally, no decreasing. After the four rounds start increasing loops the same way as decreasing, in every other round, in the end of row. Continue knitting and increasing until you have 22 loops on again (picture spot 2.). Now change the white yarn to coloured one, continue normally for about 32 cm. After that (picture spot 3.) start knitting 2 loops normally and purl 2 loops, so you’ll get ribbing. Continue this for about 8 cm. After the ribbing do the normal knitting again for about 7 cm. Then change for white yarn again, and start to decrease the loops same way as you did in the beginning (2 loops together in the ends of every other row). Keep on decreasing until you run out of loops, then end the knit work. The main piece is now ready. After that you want to knit the ear by casting 10 loops and knit normally for 2 rounds. Then start to decrease the same way as you have done two times already. Repeat this for another ear. Sew the fox’s snout by bending the starting point (picture spot 1.) to the end of the white part (see the picture). Attach it by sewing it from under with white yarn. For final touch attach ears to the end of the white part and sew some black yarn for nose. Add buttons for eyes, and now it is done! Congratulations!

Ps. Im sorry that my knitting-english isn’t so fluent, but I hope you got the rough idea about how to make it. Please ask if something is unclear.” -Pattern by  www.muumuru.com.

Fox Scarf2

Picture: www.muumuru.com

Fox Scarf3

Picture: www.muumuru.com

Knitters of All Ages

Those of you who have been around the shop this summer have probably run into Sirkku’s grandchildren Olivia and August who were visiting over their summer vacation. Both spent time “helping out” in the shop and August showed his own brand of enthusiasm for learning to knit, which Sirkku of course obliged. The lessons didn’t last long, just a few minutes at a time, but he kept on coming back to ‘do some knitting’ whenever there was a chance.

IMG_0006F

IMG_0014N

IMG_0016P

IMG_0084CW

August’s Project: Curlicue Hat

Pattern by Done Roving

Materials:

125yrds worsted weight yarn will make 1 kid-sized hat for ages 4 – 10

PinchKnitter Yarns Pattern of the Month for August 2013 - Done Roving Curlicue Hat

Size 8 Circular (16″) and size 8 Double point needles

Gauge: 4.5 sts = 1 inch Stockinette Stitch

 

Instructions:

Cast on 80 sts, join stitches and knit all rows until hat measures 6″ long.

Begin Decrease Rows as Follows:

Row 1: K8, K2 tog

Row 2: K

Row 3: K7, K2 tog

Row 4: K

Row 5: K6, K2 tog

Row 6: K

PinchKnitter Yarns Pattern of the Month for August 2013 - Done Roving Curlicue Hat

Row 7: K5, K2 tog

Row 9: K4, K2 togRow 8: K

Row 10: K

Row 11: K3, K2 tog

Row 12: K

Row 13: K2, K2 tog

Row 14: K

Row 15: K1, K2 tog

Row 16: K

Row 17: K2 tog around, leaving 4 sts for first I-cord curlicue. Knit 4 remaining sts without turning work to form I-cord–knit to desired length–bind off and weave in tail.

Cast on 4 sts and make additional I-cords for top of hat–weave in one tail–leave the other end of I-cord and use to sew in place on the top of hat. Repeat this step and add as many as your hat needs–They’re fun!

Hat may be finished without any I-cord curlicues at all by just binding off all sts.

Where’s Waldo in Stanwood! July 15th – 28th, 2013

Where's Waldo in StanwoodFind Waldo in Stanwood – the perfect summer treasure hunt right here in our neighborhood!

Pick up a “Where’s Waldo in Stanwood” passport at PinchKnitter Yarns or any of the locations listed below. Visit each business to look for a little Waldo hiding somewhere in that business – spot him and you’ll get a stamp on your passport. The first 100 Waldo seekers to collect at least 12 stamps can bring their passport to the Snow Goose Books for a “I Found Waldo” lapel sticker and a special coupon for $1 off any Find Waldo book. Show us your passport with at least 20 stamps, and we’ll also enter you in our Prize drawing on Wednesday, July 31st!

Snow Goose Bookstore
A Guilded Gallery
Clover Antiques
Coastal Community Bank – Stanwood Branch
Duck In Cafe
Firelight Bistro
Jasmin Thai Cuisine (Stanwood only)
Jungle Luv
Laurie’s Unique Boutique
Let’s Frame It & English Market
Old Town Antiques
Pinchknitter Yarns
Poppyseeds
Port Susan Farmer’s Market
Razzle Dazzle Gifts/Starlight Vintage Emporium
Schuh Farms
Stanwood Cupcakes
Stanwood Library
Stanwood-Camano Food Bank Thrift Store
Stanwood-Camano Resource Center
Sweet Bliss Frozen Yogurt
The UPS Store
Washington Federal
Yesterday, Today & Tomorrow

July’s Project: Bluebird of Happiness

We’re a bit late again this month but this sweet little bird should knit up quickly and keep you company on these lovely summer days!

Pattern and photos by Sara Elizabeth Kellner.

Abbreviations

Bluebird of Happiness by Sara Elizabeth Kellner 1

CO cast on
dpn double pointed needle
K knit
P purl
M1 make one stitch (see special note below)
st stitch
sts stitches
K2tog knit two stitches together
SSK slip two sts knit-wise, place them back onto left dpn, then K them together through the back loop
WT wrap and turn (see special note below)
PU pick up (create) a new stitch from existing work

Materials Required

Worsted weight yarn, about 25 yards
Size 4 double pointed needles
Darning needle
Stuffing

Special Notes

 M1 = make one stitch: Lift the right “leg” of the next stitch (the right side of the stitch directly
below the next stitch on your left needle), place it on the left needle, then knit it as you would any
other stitch.

 WT = wrap and turn: After knitting the specified number of stitches, bring yarn to the front of
work, slip the next st on the left dpn to the right one, move yarn to the back of your work, and slip
the stitch back to the left needle. This “wraps” the stitch. Turn your work and purl the number of
stitches indicated. Bring yarn to the back of work, slip the next st on the left dpn to the right one,
move yarn to the front of your work, and slip the stitch back to the left needle. This wraps the
second stitch. Turn your work and knit the number of stitches indicated.

Work begins at neckline

Bluebird of Happiness by Sara Elizabeth Kellner 2

CO 18 sts onto 3 dpns and work the following rounds:

1) K all sts
2) (M1, K6) repeat to end of round
3) K all sts
4) (M1, K7) repeat to end of round
5) K all sts
6) (M1, K8) repeat to end of round
7) K all sts (27 sts)
8) K3, WT, P6, WT, K3
9) K4, WT, P8, WT, K4
10) K5, WT, P10, WT, K5
11) K6, WT, P12, WT, K6
12) K7, WT, P14, WT, K7
13) K8, WT, P16, WT, K8
14) K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts in round, SSK, K1
15) Repeat round 14
16) Repeat round 14
17) Repeat round 14
18) Repeat round 14
19) Repeat round 14 (15 sts)
20) K all sts
21) Repeat round 14
22) K all sts
23) Repeat round 14
24) K all sts
25) Repeat round 14
26) K all sts
27) Repeat round 14
28) K all sts (7 sts)

Cut yarn, thread end into a darning needle, and slip through remaining live sts. Do not pull closed yet.

Head

Bluebird of Happiness by Sara Elizabeth Kellner 3

Beginning just to the right of the first CO st (center of the bird’s chest), PU 18 sts, 1 in each of the original
CO sts, then work the rounds below. (Row 3 should be worked exactly as written; 2 of the sts will be
wrapped 3 times each).

1) K all sts
2) K all sts
3) K12, WT, P6, WT, K6, WT, P6, WT, K6, WT, P6, WT, K12
4) K all sts
5) K all sts
6) (K1, K2tog) repeat to end of round
7) (K2tog) repeat to end of round
8) (K2tog) repeat to end of round (3 sts)

Cut yarn, thread end into a darning needle, and slip through remaining live sts. Pull tightly closed and
secure.

Using the end of a straight needle, stuff the bluebird’s head and body firmly through open end at tail.
Do not stuff the tail. Pull tightly closed and secure.

Darn any holes; weave in loose ends.

June’s Project: Crochet Baby Set

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/crochet-baby-set-106Size: Infants to 6 months

Requirements:

Yarn: 5-ounces of 3-ply baby yarn.

Crochet Hook: One # 3 hook; One # 2 steel hook.

1 ball of silk for Trimming.

Starting at the neck:

Chain 72 sts.
Make 1 d c in 3rd st from hook, * 3 d c in next st;
1 d c in next 4 sts;
Repeat from * across row, ending with 3 d c in next st;
1 d c in last 2 sts.

Note: Hereafter when working d c pick up the back loop of the sts and when increasing use both loops of the stitch on the row below. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next st; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 2 sts ; * skip 2 sts, 1 d c in next 2 sts; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 2 sts; repeat from * 12 times. Ch 3, turn.

Row 3: Skip 2 sts, 1 d c in next 2 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 3 sts; * skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 3 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 3 sts; repeat from * 12 times. Chain 3, turn.

Row 4: Skip 2 sts, 1 d c in next 2 sts; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 3 sts; * skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 3 sts; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 3 sts; repeat from * 12 times. Chain 3, turn.

Row 5: Skip 2 sts, 1 d c in next 3 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 4 sts; * skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 4 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 4 sts; repeat from * 12 times. Chain 3, turn.

Row 6: Skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 3 sts; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 4 sts; * skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 4 sts; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 4 sts; repeat from * 12 times. Chain 3, turn.

Row 7: Skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 4 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 5 sts; * skip 2 sts, 1 d c in next 5 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 5 sts; repeat from * 12 times. Chain 3, turn.

Row 8: Skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 4 sts; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 5 sts; * skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 5 sts; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 5 sts; repeat from * 12 times. Chain 3, turn.

Row 9: Skip 2 sts, 1 d c in next 5 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 6 sts; * skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 6 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 6 sts; repeat from * 12 times. Chain 3, turn.

Row 10: Skip 2 sts, 1 d c in next 5 sts; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 6 sts; * skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 6 sts; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 6 sts; repeat from * 12 times. Chain 3, turn.

Row 11: SEPARATION: Skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 6 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 7 sts; ** skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 7 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 7 sts **; skip the next 3 patterns for the sleeve; repeat between **’s 4 times, this is for the back; skip the next 3 patterns for second sleeve; repeat between **’s twice. (Sleeves will be worked later). Chain 3, turn.

Row 12: Skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 6 sts; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 7 sts; * skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 7 sts; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 7 sts; repeat from * across row. Chain 3, turn.

Row 13: Work in the same way, but each pattern has: 1 d c in next 8 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 8 sts. Chain 3, turn.

Row 14: Work in the same way but each pattern has: 1 d c in next 8 sts ; 5 d c in next st, 1 d c in next 8 sts. Chain 3, and turn.

Row 15: Work in the same way but each pattern has: 1 d c in next 9 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 9 sts. Chain 3, turn.

Row 16: Work in the same way but each pattern has: 1 d c in next 9 sts; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 9 sts. Chain 3, turn.

Row 17: Work in the same way but each pattern has: 1 d c in next 10 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 10 sts. (No increase) Chain 3, turn.

Row 18: Do as row 17. (No increase).

Row 19: Do as row 17. (No increase).

Row 20: Do as row 17. (No increase). Break yarn.

Sleeves:

Tie yarn at the 2nd d c at the underarm edge on the first pattern; chain 3 sts; 1 d c in next 6 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 7 sts; * skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 7 sts; 3 de in next st; 1 d c in next 7 sts ; repeat from * once more. Chain 3, turn.

Row 2: Skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 6 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 7 sts; * skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 7 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 7 sts; repeat from * once more. Chain 3, turn.

Rows 3-4-5-6-7: Repeat row 2. Break yarn. Sew up sleeve.

Beading at Neck Edge:

Tie yarn at the neck edge; chain 4 sts; * skip 1 st; 1 d c in next st; chain 2, repeat from * around neck. Break yarn.

Trimming:

With a # 2 steel hook and using the silk, single crochet all around the sweater. 2nd ROW: Picot Edge: * Make 1 s c into the next 4 sts; ch 4; slip st back into the first chain, repeat from * all around sweater. Finish the cuff of the sleeve the same way.

Booties:

Instep and Sole: Using the #3 bone hook, chain 10 sts. Make 1 s c into 2nd st from hook and in each of the remaining 8 sts. Ch 1, turn. Work 1 s c into each stitch. Work 7 rows more of s c. Chain 31 sts; join with a slip st to corner of instep. Make 9 s c along side of instep; 9 s c across toe; 9 s c along 2nd side of instep and 1 s c into each of the 31-chain sts, Work 9 rows more of s c into each st. Fasten off and break yarn. Upper part: Tie yarn at center of chain and make 1 d c in each st around (40 d c). Ch 4, turn. Next row: Skip 2 sts, 1 d c in next 2 sts, * 3 d c in next st, 1 d c in next 3 sts, skip 1 st, 1 d c in next 3 sts; repeat from * across row, ending with 1 d c in next 3 sts (5 shells). Ch 4, turn. Next row: Skip 2 sts, 1 d c in next 2 sts, * 3 d c in next st, 1 d c in next 3 sts, skip 2 sts, 1 d c in next 3 sts; repeat from * across row, ending with 3 d c in one st, 1 d c in next 3 sts. Ch 4, turn. Repeat this last row 4 times. Break yarn. Sew up sole and back of bootie. Trim with silk as on the sweater. Run ribbon through the d c row.

Bonnet:

Using the #3 bone crochet hook: Chain 4 sts; join with a slip st, to form a ring. 6 s c into the ring. 2nd round: 2 s c into each stitch. (12 sts). Mark the beginning of the round with a colored thread, so as to keep it even. 3rd round: * 1 s c in next st; 2 s c in next st; repeat from * around once. 4th round: * 1 s c in next 2 sts; 2 s c in next st; repeat from * around once. Having 1 more stitch between each increase, keep increasing 6 sts on a round until you have 12 sts between each increase (84 sts). Ch 3 sts, turn.

Row 1: Make 1 d c in next 68 sts; chain 3, turn.

Row 2: Make 1 d c into each stitch picking up the back loop only across row. Chain 3, turn. Repeat Row 2 until the piece measures 4 inches from the back of the bonnet (edge of last s c row).

Front Frill:

Chain 3 sts; 1 d c in next st; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 2 sts, * skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 2 sts; 3 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 2 sts, repeat from * 8 times more.

Next Row: Ch 3, turn, skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next st; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 2 sts; * skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 2 sts; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 2 sts; repeat from * across.

Next Row: Ch 3, turn; skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 2 sts; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 3 sts; * skip 2 sts; 1 d c in next 3 sts; 5 d c in next st; 1 d c in next 3 sts; repeat from * across row. Break yarn.

Neck Band:

S c along one side front, across back sts and across 2nd front. Make 3 rows of s c into each stitch. Break yarn. Trim with the silk as the sweater on the frill of the bonnet.

PATTERN BY: Nell Armstrong

PHOTO BY: bayettesp

May’s Project: Mobius Inside-Out Cowl

Pinchknitter Yarns Project of the Month for May 2013 - Mobius Inside-Out CowlSupplies:

1 ball of Plymouth Eros II, Dark Horse Beautiful, or your favorite railroad/ladder/trellis yarn.
Knitting needles size 15 or 17
Tapestry needle

Pattern Instructions:

Cast on 30 stitches.
Knit every row.
When you have about 2 yards left from your ball, it’s time to bind off loosely.

Finishing:

1. After binding off, put both ends of the scarf over your ironing board with the middle of the scarf draped under the board. Turn one end of the scarf over, creating a twist along the length of the scarf.
2. You will now use a tapestry needle and weave the remaining yarn from one stitch to another across the two ends, creating the cowl.
3. Tie a knot very close to the finish of your weaving. Clip off the remainder of the yarn. Your cowl is now together. No seam shows because you have woven from side to side without pulling stitches tight. It looks knitted!

Pattern and image by The Knitting Closet